How to Clean Amigurumis & Plush Toys

A well-made crochet toy can last decades. The stuffed rabbit that sat on a grandmother's shelf, the amigurumi bear that survived childhood and moved into a university dorm, the lovey that a baby carried everywhere until the colours faded to something softer and more loved — these objects outlast most things we own, because they were made by hand and cared for with intention.

But longevity doesn't happen automatically. How a toy is cleaned, dried, and stored determines whether it holds its shape and softness for years or deteriorates after a handful of washes.

This article covers everything you need to know — whether you're a maker advising a buyer, a parent trying to rescue a beloved toy, or a collector maintaining a handmade piece.

In a nutshell - Cheet Sheat

Everything in this guide, distilled into one page. Save it, print it, pin it above your craft corner — so the next time a beloved toy needs a wash, you know exactly what to do without having to search.

Picture: How to clean crochet toys like Amigurumi, Plushies and Co. Cheat Sheet.

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Before You Clean Anything: Know Your Yarn

The single most important factor in cleaning a crochet toy is the yarn it was made from. Different fibre types respond very differently to water, heat, and agitation — and getting this wrong can permanently damage a toy.

Check the yarn label first. If you made the toy yourself, you should know what yarn you used. If you received it as a gift, check for a care card — a responsible maker will always include one. If there's no information available, treat the toy as if it were the most delicate option and clean it accordingly.

Common yarn types and their care requirements:

Acrylic yarn

Acrylic yarn is the most forgiving. Most acrylic yarns are fully machine washable and tumble dryer safe on a low setting. This makes acrylic the practical choice for toys that will be heavily used and frequently washed — children's toys, comfort objects, everyday plushies.

Cotton yarn

Cotton yarn is generally machine washable but benefits from a gentle cycle and cool water. High heat can cause cotton to shrink slightly and stiffen. Air drying is preferable to tumble drying for cotton toys, to preserve their shape and texture.

Chenille and velvet yarn

Chenille and velvet yarn require the most care. Most chenille and velvet yarns are machine washable on a delicate or gentle cycle in cool water — but high heat, vigorous agitation, and tumble drying can damage the pile, cause shedding, or distort the shape of the toy. Always check the label. When in doubt, hand wash.

Wool yarn

Wool yarn — less common in toy making but occasionally used — requires careful handling. Most wool will felt (shrink and mat permanently) if exposed to hot water or significant agitation. Wool toys should be hand washed in cool water with a specialist wool wash, then laid flat to dry.

Blended yarns

Blended yarns — part acrylic, part cotton, part bamboo — should be treated according to the most delicate fibre in the blend.

How to Clean Crochet Toys

Method 1: Machine Washing

For toys made from machine-washable yarn, the washing machine is the most practical cleaning option — especially for heavily soiled toys or those that need regular washing.

How to machine wash a crochet toy safely:

Place the toy inside a mesh laundry bag or a pillowcase tied at the top. This protects it from catching on the drum, reduces agitation, and prevents small attached pieces from snagging.

Select a gentle or delicate cycle with cool or lukewarm water — never hot. Hot water can cause acrylic to distort slightly, cotton to shrink, and chenille pile to mat.

Use a mild detergent without bleach or fabric softener. Fabric softener can leave a residue that affects the texture of the yarn — particularly noticeable in chenille, where it can flatten the pile.

Avoid spinning at high speed. If your machine allows spin speed selection, choose the lowest setting. High-speed spinning can distort the shape of a stuffed toy.

After washing, gently reshape the toy while it's still damp — this is the moment to correct any distortion before the yarn dries in the wrong position.

Checklist: Machine washing

Method 2: Hand Washing

Hand washing is the gentlest cleaning method and the recommended approach for chenille, velvet, cotton, and any toy you're uncertain about. It gives you complete control over water temperature, agitation, and rinse time.

How to hand wash a crochet toy:

Fill a basin or sink with cool or lukewarm water. Add a small amount of mild detergent or specialist wool wash and mix gently until dissolved.

Submerge the toy and press it gently under the water. Do not wring, twist, or scrub — agitation damages yarn fibres and can cause chenille pile to mat or shed. Instead, squeeze the toy gently in a rhythmic motion, allowing the soapy water to work through the fibres.

For surface stains, use a soft cloth or toothbrush dipped in the soapy water to work gently at the affected area. Never scrub.

Drain the soapy water and refill with clean cool water. Rinse by pressing and squeezing until no soap remains — incomplete rinsing leaves residue that attracts dirt and can stiffen the yarn.

Gently press the toy against the side of the basin to remove excess water. Do not wring.

Checklist: Hand washing

Method 3: Spot Cleaning

For minor marks, surface dirt, or localised stains that don't require a full wash, spot cleaning is the least disruptive option. It's particularly useful for toys with embellishments, multiple yarn types, or any toy you'd rather not submerge fully.

How to spot clean a crochet toy:

Mix a small amount of mild detergent with cool water. Dampen a clean cloth or soft toothbrush with the solution — it should be damp, not wet.

Work gently at the stain in small circular motions. Avoid saturating the surrounding fabric.

Use a clean damp cloth to rinse the area, then press gently with a dry cloth to absorb moisture.

Allow the toy to air dry completely before use or storage.

Spot cleaning works well for: surface marks, food stains caught early, light soiling on specific areas. It is not sufficient for toys that are heavily soiled throughout, or for hygiene-critical cleaning of baby toys.

Drying Amigurumis — The Step Most People Get Wrong

How a crochet toy is dried is as important as how it's washed. Incorrect drying is responsible for most of the distortion, matting, and shape loss that people attribute to washing.

Air drying — always the first choice Lay the toy flat on a clean dry towel, away from direct sunlight and direct heat sources. Direct sunlight fades yarn colour over time. Direct heat — radiators, heated airers — can distort acrylic yarn and damage chenille pile.

Turn the toy every few hours to ensure even drying. Stuffed toys dry more slowly than flat fabric items because the stuffing holds moisture — allow plenty of time, and ensure the toy is completely dry before use or storage. A toy that's damp inside the stuffing will develop an unpleasant smell and, in time, mould.

For larger toys, you can gently speed the process with a fan directed at the toy from a distance — not a hair dryer, which concentrates heat too intensely.

Reshape while damp This is the most important drying tip: while the toy is still damp, take a moment to reshape it with your hands. Push stuffing into the right positions, round out the head, straighten any limbs. Yarn is most malleable when wet and will hold whatever shape it dries in.

Tumble drying Tumble drying is suitable only for toys made entirely from acrylic yarn, on a low heat setting. For everything else — cotton, chenille, velvet, wool or blends — avoid the tumble dryer. The combination of heat and agitation damages pile fibres, causes pilling in cotton, and can permanently distort the shape of a stuffed toy.

If you must use a tumble dryer for an acrylic toy, add a couple of clean tennis balls or dryer balls to the drum — this helps maintain the toy's shape during drying.

Checklist: Drying

Dealing With Specific Problems

Matted chenille pile Chenille that has matted or flattened — often from compression or incorrect washing — can sometimes be partially restored. After washing and while still damp, use a soft bristle brush or a pet slicker brush to very gently work through the pile in the direction of the nap.

This lifts the fibres and restores some of the original texture. It won't return a heavily damaged toy to its original state, but it makes a noticeable difference on lightly matted areas.

Shedding Some chenille yarns shed — releasing fibres during washing or heavy use. If a toy is shedding significantly, it's usually a sign that the yarn quality was lower than ideal. Washing in a mesh laundry bag catches loose fibres and prevents them from spreading through the wash.

There is no permanent fix for a shedding yarn — it will improve slightly over time as loose fibres work their way out, but a significant shedding problem is a yarn quality issue.

Loss of shape A toy that has lost its shape — through compression, incorrect washing, or years of use — can often be improved by carefully unpicking a small seam, adjusting the stuffing, and re-closing. Add more stuffing where the toy has flattened, redistribute existing stuffing where it has clumped, and gently reshape before re-seaming. A few minutes of attention can make a significant difference to a much-loved toy.

Odours A toy that smells musty has almost certainly been stored or used while not fully dry. Wash thoroughly and ensure complete drying before returning to use. For a toy that cannot be washed — perhaps because of its materials or embellishments — place it in a sealed bag with a small amount of baking soda overnight, then shake out thoroughly. This absorbs odours without damaging the yarn.

Surface pilling Pilling — small balls of fibre forming on the surface of the yarn — is most common with acrylic yarn under heavy use. A fabric shaver (also called a lint shaver or defuzzer) removes pills quickly and safely, restoring the surface of the toy. Use on a low setting and work gently over the surface.

Storing Crochet Toys

For toys that are being kept rather than used daily — collector pieces, seasonal toys, handmade gifts waiting to be given — correct storage preserves their condition for years.

Store in a cool, dry place away from direct light. Prolonged exposure to sunlight fades yarn colour, even through a window.

Avoid plastic bags for long-term storage — they trap moisture and can cause yellowing. Use breathable fabric bags, pillowcases, or acid-free tissue paper instead.

Store away from strong-smelling items. Yarn absorbs odours over time — cedar, lavender sachets, or mothballs near stored toys will eventually be absorbed into the fibres.

For toys with long-term sentimental value, consider boxing them in an archival box with acid-free tissue. This is particularly relevant for baby loveys and heirloom toys that will be kept for many years.

Including Care Instructions as a Maker

If you sell crochet toys — or give them as gifts — including care instructions is both a practical courtesy and, for commercially sold baby toys, a responsibility.

A simple care card tucked inside the packaging makes a significant difference to how long the toy lasts in someone else's hands. People who know how to wash a chenille toy correctly will wash it correctly. People who don't know will put it in a hot wash on a full cycle and wonder why it came out misshapen.

What to include on a care card for crocht toys

Keep it short, keep it clear, and make it feel like it came from a person rather than a label.

A Final Note on Longevity

The toys that last longest are the ones that were made well and cared for with a little attention. A high-quality chenille yarn, tight tension, secure seams, firmly anchored eyes, and a simple care card — these are the things that turn a handmade toy into something kept for a lifetime.

The most meaningful compliment a maker can receive isn't that a toy is beautiful. It's that someone still has it twenty years later.

Written by Juliane Heise, founder and crochet pattern designer at Spreeberry Creative — a Germany-based studio specialising in handmade plushies, loveys, and amigurumi. Juliane has been designing crochet toy patterns since 2020 and selling her designs internationally since 2023, with a focus on character-driven toys made for chenille and velvet yarn.